When someone checks the label of a cosmetic product, they usually find names such as Aqua, Glycerin, Tocopherol or Butyrospermum Parkii Butter instead of commercial names or simplified descriptions. That is not a branding choice. It is the result of using a standardised nomenclature. INCI is the international system used to identify cosmetic ingredients and to declare those ingredients consistently on product labels.
Understanding what INCI is and how it is used is essential for manufacturers, brands, regulatory teams and laboratories. This is not just a terminology issue. The correct ingredient name has a direct impact on labelling compliance, document consistency and the proper communication of product composition. In the European Union, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 requires cosmetic products to include an ingredient list, which makes the correct use of recognised ingredient names especially important.
What does INCI mean?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Its purpose is to assign a recognised, unique and standardised name to ingredients used in cosmetic and personal care products. The system is linked to the work of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Nomenclature Committee and follows official nomenclature conventions used across the sector.
In practice, this means that the same substance or ingredient should be identifiable through a consistent name across different products and markets. As a result, labelling information becomes more uniform and easier to review from a regulatory perspective.
How ingredient nomenclature is used in cosmetics
INCI plays a key role throughout the cosmetic product chain. It helps translate formulas, raw materials and technical documentation into a common labelling language that is recognised and widely accepted in the industry.
Its main functions include:
- Standardising ingredient declaration in cosmetic labelling.
- Avoiding confusion between trade names, chemical names and label names.
- Supporting regulatory and documentary review of cosmetic products.
- Improving transparency for professionals, authorities and consumers.
- Facilitating international marketing, since it provides a widely recognised naming reference.
INCI is not the same as a chemical name or a trade name
One of the most common mistakes is assuming that the INCI name is always the same as the ingredient’s chemical name or the supplier’s commercial name. It is not. INCI names are created specifically for cosmetic ingredient declaration on product labels.
This has very practical implications. A raw material may be purchased under a supplier’s trade name, but that name should not appear as such in the ingredient list of the cosmetic product. In the same way, a chemical designation that may be valid in another technical context is not necessarily the correct way to declare the ingredient on the label. That is why reviewing nomenclature before finalising artwork and regulatory documentation helps prevent errors that often become expensive later.
How are INCI names created?
INCI nomenclature follows specific conventions. It is not an improvised list or a collection of popular terms, but a structured system with rules designed to create names that are consistent, identifiable and useful for labelling purposes.
Some important points about these conventions are:
- The shortest possible name is used when it is compatible with the nomenclature rules.
- Unnecessary punctuation and capitalisation are minimised.
- Specific criteria apply to botanicals, peptides, biotechnology-derived ingredients, fermentation products and other complex categories.
- The system evolves over time to adapt to new technologies and emerging ingredients.
This is especially important for innovative or highly technical ingredients, where it is not enough to choose a name that merely sounds appropriate. The nomenclature must be correct and aligned with the rules that apply to that specific type of ingredient.
Common examples of INCI names
Many INCI names are familiar to professionals in the sector, although less so to end consumers. For example, water is usually declared as Aqua, vitamin E as Tocopherol, and shea butter as Butyrospermum Parkii Butter. In the case of botanical ingredients, labels often use the Latin name of the plant together with the relevant plant part.
This does not mean that the label is trying to hide information. It means that the industry uses a common reference to identify ingredients consistently. That consistency makes it easier to compare products, review formulations and maintain documentary traceability.
Having an INCI name does not mean the ingredient is approved or safe
This point needs to be made very clearly. The fact that an ingredient has an INCI name does not automatically mean that it is authorised in every market, that it is safe at any concentration or that it fully complies with all applicable legislation.
In other words, INCI solves the identification and naming of the ingredient, but it does not replace regulatory assessment or a review of whether the ingredient is permitted under the intended conditions of use. To place a cosmetic product on the market in a compliant way, it is also necessary to consider restrictions, applicable annexes, purity, concentration, claims, warnings and all other relevant requirements affecting the finished product.
The relationship between INCI and EU cosmetic regulation
In the European Union, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 requires cosmetic products to include an ingredient list on the label. In addition, the European Commission has developed a glossary of common ingredient names for use in cosmetic product labelling. This reinforces the importance of using harmonised and recognised terminology when declaring ingredients.
For that reason, INCI review should not be left until the last stage of packaging design. It is an important part of the product’s broader regulatory and documentary strategy, especially when dealing with botanical extracts, complex ingredients, new raw materials or developments involving multiple suppliers.
When might an INCI application be needed?
When an ingredient does not yet have an assigned INCI name, it may be necessary to submit a specific application. This is especially relevant for ingredient manufacturers and suppliers, but it can also affect brands and formulators. If a raw material does not have properly defined nomenclature, this may lead to delays or inconsistencies in labelling, technical documentation and product launch planning.
This becomes particularly relevant in the case of biotechnology-derived materials, fermentation-based ingredients, peptides, plant cell culture materials and other innovative categories.
Common mistakes related to INCI
In practice, several recurring errors appear quite often in the sector:
- Using the supplier’s trade name instead of the INCI name.
- Assuming that the chemical name can always be used on the cosmetic label.
- Believing that having an INCI name means automatic regulatory approval.
- Failing to verify the correct nomenclature of innovative, botanical or biotechnology-based ingredients.
- Reviewing the ingredient list only after the packaging artwork has already been finalised.
Correcting these mistakes early can help avoid documentation changes, packaging revisions and unnecessary regulatory observations.
How SHAPYPRO can help
In this context, SHAPYPRO can help you review the correct identification of ingredients within your product documentation and verify that your labelling is aligned with the applicable regulatory requirements. This is especially valuable when working with complex formulations, raw materials from different suppliers or products intended for multiple markets, where a simple nomenclature inconsistency can lead to compliance issues, launch delays or later corrections.
INCI verification is part of a broader technical review of the product, together with documentary analysis, regulatory assessment and cosmetic labelling preparation.
Conclusion
INCI is far more than a list of technical names on a label. It is the basis of a harmonised nomenclature system that allows cosmetic ingredients to be declared in a consistent, traceable and understandable way within the regulatory framework of the cosmetics sector. Its correct application helps improve transparency, strengthen documentary consistency and reduce labelling errors.
For any cosmetic brand or manufacturer, understanding INCI properly is an important step in achieving regulatory compliance. It is not enough to formulate a product correctly. Its ingredients must also be named correctly, documented properly and accurately reflected on the final label. Because in cosmetics, as in most regulated industries, a small unresolved detail can turn into a much bigger problem.