Natural cosmetics is one of the fastest growing segments of the global cosmetics market. However, the lack of a universally accepted definition and the existence of differing regulations between countries create confusion for both producers and consumers. This article explores the regulatory landscape of natural cosmetics, certification standards and the challenges related to the authenticity, transparency and sustainability of these products.
Introduction
In recent years, growing consumer interest in sustainability and health has driven an increased demand for natural cosmetics. However, the term ‘natural’ has no clear definition and varies according to national and international regulations. In this article, we look at how natural cosmetics are regulated at the European level and which certification standards are the most recognised. We will also address the issue of ISO 16128 in order to be able to justify the claims ‘natural’ or ‘organic’.
Regulation in Europe
In Europe, the regulatory framework overseeing the cosmetics market is Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, which sets strict rules for the safety of cosmetic products but does not specifically define what a natural cosmetic is. Therefore, in regulatory terms, a natural cosmetic product has to be considered the same as a conventional cosmetic product. However, there are several recognised certification standards, such as COSMOS and ECOCERT, which impose criteria on the use of natural and organic ingredients. Another way to justify ‘natural’ claims is through the application of ISO 16128.
Private certificates for natural cosmetics
The lack of unified regulation has led to the creation of numerous independent organizations that issue certifications to guarantee the authenticity of natural cosmetics. Among them, COSMOS and ECOCOERT are among the most recognised and guarantee that products meet environmental, ethical and safety criteria.
- COSMOS STANDARD
The COSMOS Standard is one of the most important certification systems in the field of natural and organic cosmetics worldwide. COSMOS was created in 2010 by the merger of several leading European certification organizations. These entities decided to unify criteria to establish a standard that would ensure transparency and consistency in the definition of natural and organic cosmetics.
COSMOS establishes two main types of certifications:
- COSMOS Natural: Certifies products that meet the criteria for natural cosmetics, i.e., contain ingredients of natural origin and avoid the use of synthetic chemicals. The ingredients should preferably come from renewable resources and be processed in an environmentally friendly way.
- COSMOS Organic: In addition to meeting the criteria for natural cosmetics, to be labelled as organic, a product must contain at least 20% organic ingredients in body and face products (10% for rinse-off products such as soaps or shampoos). The percentage of organic ingredients must be clearly indicated on the packaging.
- ECOCERT
ECOCERT is one of the oldest and most recognised organization for the certification of natural and organic cosmetics. Founded in France in 1991, ECOCERT is present in more than 80 countries. It was a pioneer in setting standards for organic and natural products, both in cosmetics and in other sectors such as food and agriculture.
ECOCERT offers two types of certifications for cosmetics:
- ECOCERT Natural: A cosmetic certified under this standard must contain at least 95% ingredients of natural origin. Petrochemical-derived (synthetic) ingredients are prohibited. In addition, ECOCERT requires that formulas do not include GMOs (genetically modified organisms), parabens, phenoxyethanol, nanoparticles, silicone, PEGs, synthetic perfumes or artificial colourings.
- ECOCERT Natural and Organic: To obtain this certification, at least 95% of the product’s plant-based ingredients must be of organic origin, and at least 20% of the total ingredients must also be organic. In addition, products must be produced in a sustainable manner, with recyclable packaging and minimal impact on the environment.
- Other certifications
At national level there are also certifiers such as BDIH in Germany, USDA ORGANIC in the USA, IBD in Brazil, ICEA in Italy and SOIL ASSOCIATION in the UK.
Compliance with ISO 16128 for natural cosmetics
ISO 16128 is an international standard published by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) to provide technical guidelines on the definition of natural and organic ingredients used in cosmetics. This standard was developed to provide a common basis globally and to harmonize the different definitions and practices around natural and organic cosmetics. Unlike private certifications, ISO 16128 is not a certification, but a technical framework that companies can use on a voluntary basis.
ISO 16128 consists of two parts:
- ISO 16128-1 (2016): Guidelines on ingredient definitions.
- ISO 16128-2 (2017): Guidelines on the percentages of natural and organic ingredients in cosmetic products.
The main purpose of ISO 16128 is to provide a standard methodology for calculating the natural and organic content of a cosmetic product. In this way, companies can more accurately determine and communicate the proportion of natural, naturally derived and organic ingredients in their formulations, providing transparency to consumers.
Differences between ISO 16128 and private certifiers
Here are some key differences between ISO 16128 and private certifiers:
ISO vs. certifications
- ISO 16128 is an international technical standard that provides a reference framework. It does not involve auditing or third-party inspection, and companies can use it internally to calculate the natural and organic ratings of their products without needing the approval of an external body.
- Certifications such as COSMOS or ECOCERT require external audits and meet stricter criteria in terms of ingredient composition, production processes, sustainability, packaging and prohibition of synthetic ingredients.
Transparency and control of ingredients
- ISO 16128 allows ingredients that have been chemically modified (as long as they retain at least 50% of their natural structure). This means that ingredients that have undergone complex chemical transformations can be considered as ‘naturally derived’.
- COSMOS and ECOCERT prohibit the use of many synthetic preservatives, perfumes and colourings, as well as ingredients derived from petrochemicals.
Labelling and marketing
- ISO 16128 does not set out specific rules for product labelling. Companies can follow the guidelines for calculating natural or organic content, but there is no official ISO logo or symbol to support this claim.
- Private certifiers such as COSMOS or ECOCERT have recognizable logos that brands can use on their packaging.
Challenges in the natural cosmetics market
Despite the growing interest in natural cosmetics, the sector faces numerous challenges.
- Greenwashing
One of the main problems is greenwashing, i.e. the misleading use of ‘green’ labels by companies to promote products that are not really sustainable or natural. The lack of clear regulation facilitates the use of non-transparent claims, which can mislead consumers.
- Sustainability and sourcing
The sourcing of natural ingredients can also raise sustainability issues, especially in terms of exploitation of natural resources and local communities. Many natural raw materials, such as essential oils, are sourced from crops that may be subject to unsustainable agricultural practices.
- Safety and efficacy
Another challenge is the perception that natural cosmetics are inherently safer than conventional cosmetics. However, the safety and efficacy of some natural ingredients are not always scientifically supported, and some may cause allergic reactions.
Conclusion
The regulation of natural cosmetics is an evolving field that requires a more uniform approach at the international level. The establishment of clear and transparent certification standards is essential to ensure consumer confidence and support the growth of this sector. At the same time, the industry must address the challenge of greenwashing and promote sustainable practices throughout the production chain.